Brocante Saleya
Cours Saleya market in Nice is at the heart of the Old Town, just behind the Promenade des Anglais. Striped awnings cover its centre and shelter the products on offer in the daily market, which is always pulsating with life. Crowds of locals and tourists come here to do their shopping or sometimes just to look and snap photos of the colorful displays, and the scents of fresh produce and flowers as well as the friendly atmosphere put everyone in a good mood.
Cours Saleya hosts four different markets over the week. The most well known are the Marché aux Fleurs, (Flower Market) and the Marché aux fruits et legumes (Fruit and Vegetable Market), which are held 6 days a week. However, one day a week you won’t find neither flowers nor food in Cours Saleya. It’s the day for the marché à la brocante, the antiques/flea market.
Once a week, Nice’s colorful, sun-drenched cours Saleya turns into a sprawling Antique Market or ‘Brocante’, where around 200 flea market vendors sell a variety of fairly high-quality antiques, collectibles and fascinating French bric-a-brac.
Some of the most common items sold at the Brocante Saleya include antique furniture, vintage clothing, posters, antique bottles, silverware, nautical and travel items, ceramics, paintings, memorabilia, old black & white pictures and postcards, vintage toys, rustic wooden items, jewelry and trinkets.
Unlike the food and flower market where bargaining is a no-no, on flea market day bargaining is a must – particularly considering the fact that prices start rather high.
However, bargain hunters can always manage to score a good find, particularly in the adjacent place Pierre Gauthier, where odds and ends are piled on the ground. And even if you don’t buy anything, think of the Brocante Saleya like a vast open-air museum where you can browse treasures normally found only in old French attics.
I had previously visited this market on a stormy day in February and still found some wonderful buys and merchants willing to negotiate. Purchases included a set of baccarat wine glasses, a copper pan and vintage costume jewelry. I visited the market again in October on a sunny day, and found lots of interest, from full sets of Christophle silver, to vintage jewelry. While some vendors are not interested in any negotiation, most are open to offering a reduction to serious purchasers. The goods are varied and interesting, and on a sunny day, the market spills over into the adjoining plaza, so be sure to walk the full length of the market. Well worth a special trip, and when you need a break, have a wonderful lunch at Le Safari at 1 Cours Saleya.
You won’t be disappointed by this flea market where you can find that unique item to bring back home after having visited France. There are so many participants that you need at least a couple of hours to check everything out.
Unlike the high-end shops, you can bargain to some extent. I bought a vintage (1950’s) complete set for 6 guests including a soup holder with lid, 2 large serving platters, a large salad bowl and a smaller serving dish. All this for only 120 euros! I will make a point of returning whenever possible.